“What can you do in Sibu, anyway?”
Sibu might not be much in the limelight as its more famous siblings, Kuching and Miri, but if you were to assume that Sibu is just another sleepy backwater, well, you couldn’t be more mistaken, my friends. This charming town, perched along the banks of the mighty Rajang River, boasts a delightful mix of cultures, fascinating history, and mouth-watering local cuisine.
“My mum always asks me to bring back one of those woven bags whenever I’m in town,” shared my travel companion, a true-blue Sarawakian, as we meandered through the bustling stalls of Sibu Central Market. “They’re cheaper here than in Kuching, and the designs are just gorgeous!” She also mentioned that locals swear by the dabai (Sarawak’s olive-like fruit), claiming it’s far superior in Sibu compared to anywhere else. Reflecting on these conversations, I couldn’t help but wonder how such a small town manages to leave such a lasting impression on so many.
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And then it hit me: it must be the atmosphere! You see, Sibu isn’t trying to be the most cutting-edge or thrilling destination. Its charm lies in its simplicity, in the way it encourages you to slow down and savour life’s little pleasures, much like the good old days when life wasn’t rushing past at breakneck speed.
So, for those ready to experience its heart and soul, here’s how to spend 48 hours exploring Sibu like a local (with a bit of flair, of course).
DAY 1:
0830AM: Local Snack Stop at Pulut Panggang Sibo Kak Yam Noor
First stop, breakfast! But not just any breakfast: say hello to pulut panggang (grilled glutinous rice rolls) at Kak Yam Noor’s. Unlike the coconut and shrimp-filled version found elsewhere, Sibu’s pulut panggang is often enjoyed plain and dipped into curry. What sets this humble snack from this stall apart is that it is still grilled over charcoal, giving it a subtle, smoky taste that’s hard to beat. This fourth-generation family business is the real deal, churning out around 1,000 pieces a day, at a mere MYR1.20 each (MYR1.50 if you prefer the spicy version). But remember not to dawdle; they’re open from 7:30 a.m. until they sell out, which happens fast!
0915AM: Spiritual Serenity at Masjid Al Qadim
Now that you’ve refuelled, it’s time for a little historical journey to one of Sarawak’s oldest mosques, Masjid Al Qadim. This 19th-century beauty has stood the test of time, thanks to its ingenious use of Borneo’s finest ironwood, kayu belian. It’s a mesmerising slice of Malay-Nusantara architecture, reminiscent of Indonesia’s oldest mosque, Masjid Agung Demak. Don’t miss out on the intricate wooden beams, windows, and roof structure that have held up since the day they were built, which are truly a feast for the eyes.
1030AM: A Glimpse into Sibu’s Chinese Roots at the World Fuzhou Heritage Gallery
Next stop is the World Fuzhou Heritage Gallery, where you can learn about the lives of Sibu’s Foochow pioneers. With more than 650 artefacts on display, many over a century old, this gallery is like walking into a time machine. Having that said, I feel this museum will still spark a warm nostalgic emotion even if you were not from a Foochow clan. Expect childhood gadgets like disc players or old phones that were used to be popular back then; who knew looking at old Blackberry phones could trigger nostalgia?
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1200PM: Lunch at Habibi Claypot
Hungry yet? Head to Habibi Claypot for a hearty lunch. Known for its generous portions and affordable prices, the place oozes warmth, both in terms of its food and ambience. Peek into the open kitchen as the chefs work their magic. However, the real star of the show is the lamb soup, which is aromatic, tender, and basically a hug in a bowl.
1345PM: Visit the Lau King Howe Hospital Museum
If you’ve met a local aged 30 or older, there’s a high chance they were born at the legendary Lau King Howe Hospital. Founded by the generous Mr. Lau King Howe in the 1930s, this hospital holds a special place in Sibu’s history. While it has since moved to a larger facility, the original site is preserved as a museum. From antique medical equipment to an eye-catching display of nurses’ uniforms through the decades, this museum is a hidden gem for anyone intrigued by healthcare history, and it’s surprisingly fun, too!
1500PM: Cultural Immersion at Sibu Heritage Centre
This next stop is perfect for the culture vultures. The Sibu Heritage Centre was once the administrative hub of the Sibu Municipal Council, now a vibrant museum brimming with artefacts that tell the story of the local ethnic tribes. It is fascinating how much one can learn here. The real showstopper? The skulls! Yes, these are actual skulls representing Iban heritage, known for this ethnic group’s past headhunting practices. You’ll also encounter the mysterious Belum, the Melanau healing figure that serves as the bridge between the physical and spiritual realms in traditional rituals. Oh, don’t forget your camera! The building itself is an architectural beauty, making it a hotspot for photography enthusiasts.
1715PM: Slow down on a River Cruise along the Rajang
No trip to Sibu is complete without a cruise along the mighty Rajang River. It’s Malaysia’s longest river, after all! As you glide along the river, you’ll get a front-row seat to the laidback lifestyle of riverine villages, perched on stilts above the water. The cruise is a steal at MYR15 per person, lasting a relaxing hour. There’s no better way to soak up Sibu’s serene side.
1830PM: Street Food at Sibu Night Market
Arriving as the sun sets is a good idea, as the colours of the sky become beautiful backdrop for the nearby Tua Pek Kong Temple’s pagoda. Trust me, the sky in Sibu is incredibly gorgeous during this time of the day. The market, which sets up at around 5:00 p.m., is a food lover’s dream come true. You’ll find everything from skewers to sweets, all at wallet-friendly prices.
DAY 2:
0900AM: Mee Sua-Making Workshop
Begin your second day with a hands-on experience at a mee sua workshop. Mee sua, a traditional wheat vermicelli dish, is a symbol of longevity in Foochow culture, and in Sibu, it’s typically served in a red wine soup with ginger and sesame oil.
Learn the centuries-old craft from Mr. Ting and Ms. Tang, who’ve been making these noodles by hand for over 35 years. It’s a labour of love that involves stretching the dough into thin strips and drying them under the sun, a fun yet fiddly process. Plus, you’ll appreciate that bowl of noodles so much more when you know the work that goes into it.
And here’s a tip for noodle lovers: mee sua makes a cracking noodle alternative to the Korean Jajangmyeon. The texture is quite similar, springy with just the right amount of chew.
Contact: Ms. Tang (+6011-5635 6631)
1100AM: Shop at Sibu Central Market
Need souvenirs? Sibu Central Market, the largest indoor market in Malaysia, has you covered. From dabai to Sarawak butter made from the exotic Shorea macrophylla tree, there’s plenty to tempt you. You’ll also find layer cakes, ikan terubuk masin (salted fish), and woven bags aplenty. And if you were feeling brave, have a go at trying a sago worm or two – it’s an experience, to say the least. The market opens from 6:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. every day.
1300PM: Lunch at Cabe Ijo
It’s time to refuel at Cabe Ijo, where you’ll find everything from Sarawakian favourites like midin (a fern dish) and umai (a raw fish salad) to the simple but utterly addictive cangkuk manis (local leaves), stir-fried with eggs. Grab a table inside or outside, and let the feast begin.
1630PM: Learn about the Iban Culture at Bawang Assan
Cap off your visit with a trip to the Bawang Assan Longhouse, an Iban settlement dating back more than 130 years. You’ll be greeted in true Iban style: a ceremonial tuak (fermented rice wine) toast and an energetic Ngajat Ngalu Temuai, the traditional Iban welcoming dance. It’s impossible not to be swept up by the festive spirit as the rhythmic movements unfold before your eyes. Don’t be shy to join in as well because it’s all part of the fun!
The longhouses range from traditional wooden structures to more modern versions, providing a fascinating insight into how the Iban people have blended their rich heritage with the conveniences of contemporary life. Remember to try your hand at traditional Iban games too like the blowpipe, or feast on local delicacies.
What makes this experience particularly special, for me at least, is its authenticity. There’s no commercial veneer, no over-the-top tourist traps; just genuine warmth, tradition, and a community that’s proud to share its heritage with visitors.
Contact: Lydia (+6013-880 8091)
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Gaya Travel Magazine extends our heartfelt gratitude to Sarawak Tourism Board for making the writer’s trip to this beautiful town possible. Visit sarawaktourism.com/city/sibu for more information about Sibu.
