“Journey not just to see the sights, but to feel the heartbeat of a place.” This sentiment echoed within me as I boarded my AirAsia flight to Sarawak for a trip organised by Tourism Malaysia Sarawak Office and Sarawak Delta Geopark in conjunction with Hari Gawai (Harvest Festival) 2024. It was my first time flying back to this state, my birthplace, which my family and I left before I was two years old. Although the idea of returning had always felt distant, the genuine warmth and service from the airline’s staff made the journey more comforting. Little did I know, this trip would become a rediscovery of the land that shaped me in ways I had yet to understand.
Bengoh Dam: A Sanctuary of Serenity
My adventure began with the trip to Bengoh Dam, a hidden gem nestling in the heart of Sarawak. The drive from Kuching is mesmerising, with winding roads flanked by dense forests and rolling hills. Each turn reveals new layers of natural beauty. When I arrived at the dam, a deep sense of peace enveloped me.
It kicked off with a relaxing half-hour boat ride that glided across the water. Followed by a one-hour hike, allowing me to soak in the gorgeous scenery. With no cell phone connection along the way, it’s the perfect chance to really reconnect with nature and enjoy some peace and quiet.
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The stillness of the water mirrored the lush greenery surrounding it, creating an oasis far removed from daily chaos. It was like stepping into a painting, every stroke crafted by nature. As I hiked through the Bengoh Range, the rhythm of my footsteps on the forest floor felt meditative. Upon nearing the Pe’an and Susung Waterfalls, I recalled my mother’s childhood tales about fairies dwelling beneath clear waters. She’d say that if the water was clear enough to see your feet, it meant that fairies were near. What once seemed like a charming story now felt vividly real. As the mist gently touched my face, and the enchanting scenery made me understand the magic behind her words.
“To walk in nature is to witness a thousand miracles.” Standing before the waterfalls, enveloped by the jungle’s untouched splendour, every leaf, every drop of water, every breeze felt like a small miracle, filling me with a sense of peace and grounding that I hadn’t known I needed.
Kampung Sapit: A Night Under the Stars
I spent a night at Kampung Sapit, a Bidayuh village in the highlands of Padawan. My arrival was greeted by the cool air, a refreshing change from the humidity of the lowlands. The village sits on the edge of Borneo Highlands, where the view at 5:00 a.m. is nothing short of breathtaking. A panorama of mist-covered hills stretching into the horizon.
When I was there, the night was filled with cultural performances and traditional dances. The rhythms of the gongs and the graceful movements captivated everyone present. I never thought I would fit in, standing there among people so deeply connected to their traditions. But as the night proceeded, I realised how wrong I was. The hospitality was nothing short of amazing. Despite my initial doubts, I found myself sharing their laughter, their stories, and their joy.
The highlight of my stay was meeting one of the few remaining “Ring Ladies” — the women who still proudly wear the traditional brass coils around their arms and legs, a symbol of beauty and strength from the past. Witnessing their resilience and pride in preserving this practice was eye-opening. It was a powerful reminder of how traditions, even in their fading form, still carry immense significance.
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The Heart of Sarawak: Hari Gawai and Cultural Richness
To me, one of the trip’s highlights was experiencing the remaining days of Hari Gawai at Matop Longhouse in Betong. Though I arrived after the main celebrations, the festival’s vibrant spirit still lingered in the air. The longhouses, adorned with colourful weavings and traditional decorations, seemed to hold onto the joy and energy of the celebration.
What touched me most was the incredible hospitality of the locals. They welcomed me, an outsider, with open arms, offering tuak—a traditional rice wine—as a symbol of their generosity. While I didn’t partake in it, the gesture alone was deeply touching. The true magic of the festival came through in the heartfelt way the community embraced me.
Growing up, my experience with festivals was limited. All I knew before this were the Eid celebrations (Eid ul Fitr and Eid ul Adha), which I assumed were the most vibrant and lively celebrations out there. However, my experience in Sarawak proved otherwise. Hari Gawai opened my eyes to a different kind of festivity, one filled with unique cultural expressions that were both fun and deeply engaging. The joy and energy of the celebration surpassed anything I imagined, revealing a whole new world of festivity I had never experienced before.
Reflections on the Journey
As my trip came to an end, I was surprised by the deep sense of fulfilment. Growing up with the middle digits ‘13’ on my Malaysian identity card (the digits that indicate which state the cardholder was born), I always knew I was born in Sarawak, but I never felt connected to the place; however, this journey shifted that perspective.
In Sarawak, I didn’t just find a place — I found a profound sense of belonging that had always been there, beneath several layers of unfamiliarity. Sarawak, with its beauty, music, and rich traditions, didn’t just captivate me — it embraced me. And for the first time, I felt like I truly belonged.
I realised that being a Sarawakian isn’t just about the number on your identity card; it’s about feeling the land’s pulse, the people’s heartbeat, and being part of the moment. I’ve come to understand that being Sarawakian is more than a birthright; it’s a connection to the rhythm of this place, a harmony that unfolds over time, just like the dulcet sounds of sape that I had been hearing during my journey in Sarawak, which continued in my mind like a soothing lullaby to my soul, even after I have long returned to Kuala Lumpur…
Gaya Travel Magazine team extends its heartfelt gratitude to Tourism Malaysia Sarawak Office and Sarawak Delta Geopark for making the writer’s trip to Sarawak possible and smooth-sailing.
Filed in: Bengoh Dam / sarawak / Sarawak Delta Geopark
