Indonesia

Going Solo @ Surakarta

Although Surakarta is the sibling city and sharing cultural and heritage similarities with Yogyakarta, this batik city in Java possesses its own distinctive uniqueness.

A century-old theatre play called ‘Wayang Orang Sriwedari’ (Sriwedari Theatre Troupe) was revived by the government, private institutions and the young generation back in early 2000s after years of decline

Although Surakarta is the sibling city and sharing cultural and heritage similarities with Yogyakarta, this batik city in Java possesses its own distinctive uniqueness.

Solo, also known as Surakarta, has gracefully embraced modernization, adaptation, and integration while steadfastly preserving its authentic Javanese essence, setting it apart from other cities in Java. This captivating destination exerts an irresistible allure on those with a penchant for culture, heritage, history, and refined ethnic experiences.

Side note: Malaysians identify Surakarta as Solo based on a famous Indonesian folk song called ‘Begawan Solo’ (‘Solo River’), which is the longest river in Java that flows through the central and eastern parts of the island.

MUSEUMS AND HERITAGE

Step into the enchanting world of Surakarta, Indonesia, where history and culture intertwine in a mesmerizing tapestry. In this vibrant city, travellers have the opportunity to immerse themselves in the captivating story of the Mataram Sultanate, a realm steeped in grandeur and tradition. Among the remarkable treasures that await discovery, two iconic landmarks stand as gateways to the past: the Mangkunegaran Palace and the Surakarta Hadiningrat Palace.

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The 250 years old Mangkunegaran Palace is characterised by its Dutch-Javanese architecture.
The 250 years old Mangkunegaran Palace is characterised by Dutch-Javanese architecture.

Nestled majestically in the heart of Surakarta, the Mangkunegaran Palace offers a glimpse into the legacy of the Mataram Sultanate. Established in 1757, this architectural marvel showcases a fusion of Dutch and Javanese influences, lending it a unique character. Within its walls reside a vast collection of heirlooms and artifacts, spanning the epochs of Majapahit and the Mataram Sultanate. Today, the palace has evolved into an esteemed art and cultural centre, where visitors can traverse the corridors of history and immerse themselves in Surakarta’s vibrant heritage.

Batik Museum of Danar Hadi

The art of batik holds an esteemed place in Indonesian culture, and Surakarta proudly boasts the renowned Batik Solo style, cherished by connoisseurs around the globe. While the art form has evolved over time, it has retained an exceptional distinctiveness that sets it apart. The Batik Museum of Danar Hadi stands as a testament to the mastery of batik, inviting visitors on a captivating journey through its evolution across the ages.

Regarded as one of the world’s premier batik museums, it houses over 10,000 exquisite pieces from various corners of the globe, including rare, royal, and antique specimens. Delving beyond its exhibits, the museum’s storefront beckons with a diverse array of high-quality batik creations for those seeking to bring home a piece of this rich cultural heritage. Moreover, the museum’s experts offer their knowledge in assessing the historical significance and value of ancient batiks, unravelling the secrets of their origins.

Surakarta’s allure extends beyond batik, encompassing the realm of weaponry. The city boasts one of the world’s preeminent keris museums, where visitors can witness the fascinating process behind the creation of these iconic hand-wielded weapons.

At the Keris Museum in Solo, a captivating journey unfolds, revealing the intricate craftsmanship and symbolism that distinguishes the keris from other weapons. From the fluid curves and lines that resemble rivers and water, each keris possesses a distinct personality. Delving deeper, visitors discover the diverse array of keris types, each tailored to fulfil specific needs. Notably, the museum sheds light on the nuanced differences between keris crafted for women and those fashioned for men, with the former often characterized by their shorter length.

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For those with an insatiable curiosity for the mysteries of the past, the Sangiran Museum offers an awe-inspiring experience. Situated within the renowned Sangiran archaeological excavation site, recognized by UNESCO for its significance, this museum serves as a gateway to a bygone era. Here, an education centre presents a captivating display of prehistoric human and animal fossils dating back as far as a million years.

It is within these hallowed halls that the world-renowned “Java Man” finds its home, capturing the imagination of archaeologists and history enthusiasts alike. The Sangiran Museum stands as a testament to the enduring quest for knowledge about our ancient origins, providing a profound understanding of the rich tapestry of human history.

In Surakarta, Indonesia, history comes alive, woven intricately into the fabric of daily life. Through its palaces, museums, and archaeological wonders, the city invites explorers to embark on a voyage of discovery, immersing themselves in a world where time stands still and the echoes of the past whisper enchantingly in every corner.

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 SHOPPING & CRAFTS

When travelling to Indonesia, travellers are bound to do shopping due to the abundance of interesting and value-for-money goods and merchandise. Although Surakarta may not be the place for visitors to look for high-end fashion, it is still a popular place for shoppers seeking products and crafts that are rich in heritage, ethnic style and ingenuity. Like Jogjakarta, Surakarta is also a batik powerhouse.

Pria Tampan

To shop for beautiful batik, Pria Tampan is one of the batik houses in Laweyan Village offering a rich experience for visitors who wish to learn more about batik and a wide variety of high-quality batik collections to buy. Laweyan Village is one of the oldest batik villages in Indonesia and is recognised as the haven for Batik Solo. Visitors from all over the world come to this village to find batik masterpieces that are authentic and unique. When walking around the village, visitors can enjoy and appreciate the interesting architecture of the surrounding houses and structures that possess Javanese, European, Islamic and Chinese influences.

For a wider variety of batik and textiles, Klewer Market should be the place to visit. This shopping centre, which accommodates batik traders from Surabaya, Jogjakarta and other parts of Indonesia, is Solo City’s icon.

Other than collecting antique batik, ardent travelling collectors should visit Triwindu Antique Market, a flea market where anything considered antique is on sale. Triwindu Market is also famous for offering one of the most affordable prices of antique items comprising old shadow puppets, ancient batik, old coins, vintage posters, wooden masks, keris and more. This antique market is located in front of Mangkunegaran Palace and is a must-visit when travellers come to Surakarta.

FOOD TRAILS

During our trip to Solo City of Surakarta, we savoured various local dishes and food unique to Surakarta. My favourite restaurant during the trip is Omah Sinten (www.omahsinten.net), which is a great place to experience local cuisine and take Instagram-worthy selfies! I tried Garang Asem Bumbung and Timlo Solo for the first time here. Garang Asem tasted like gulai lemak, a soupy curry-like dish made from coconut milk, turmeric root and leaf while Timlo Solo is a spicy but delicious soup containing tofu, eggs and meat. Located next to Triwindu Market and opposite Keraton Mangkunegaran, this is also the place where travellers should come to chill Solo-style: drinking refreshing tea while listening to keroncong music. Love it!

During the nighttime, travellers should head down to Galabo Solo, which is Surakarta’s street food market opened on a street that has been pedestrianised exactly behind Vastenburg Fort. Already a major tourist attraction, this is where travellers can enjoy authentic nasi gudeg (rice with jackfruit dish), nasi liwet (rice cooked in coconut milk, chicken broth and spices), timlo solo, tengkleng (soup made from mutton bones and ribs) and satay.

Omah Sinten

On top of that, I also recommend that travellers visit Pak Haji Bejo Restaurant to enjoy the best tengkleng and mutton satay in Surakarta. Here, tengkleng is traditionally made by simmering the mutton bones and ribs together with herbs and spices, resulting in a strong aroma. Mutton satay, on the other hand, refers to skewered grilled pieces of mutton meat. Apparently, this is the favourite restaurant of the President of Indonesia, Joko Widodo, during his tenure as the Mayor of Solo.

A trip to Surakarta is also incomplete without trying the Serabi Notosuman, one of the best and oldest establishments selling serabi in Surakarta. Serabi is a sweet and soft delicacy made of flour and sugar but comes with different kinds of toppings.

ENTERTAINMENT

Sriwedari Human Puppet Troupe

A century-old theatre play called ‘Wayang Orang Sriwedari’ (Sriwedari Theatre Troupe) was revived by the government, private institutions and the young generation back in the early 2000s after years of decline. Social media has also helped in bringing back interest towards this type of play, which used to be shown exclusively at the royal palaces.

Sriwedari Human Puppet Troupe

The play performs various stories, but most are taken from the Ramayana and Mahabharata epics. Live gamelan music is used to accompany the performance, including contemporary background music and special effects. During intermission, audiences are entertained by hilarious comic characters from the play.

However, foreign travellers might be limited to admiring the play’s aesthetics and music since they might not comprehend the play’s script and jokes during intermission since the play is performed entirely in Javanese.

FESTIVAL

Solo International Performing Arts (SIPA)

SIPA 2017

When we were in Solo, we had the opportunity to witness the official launch of Solo International Performing Arts (SIPA) that took place at the Vastenburg Fort. Since its inception back in 2009 (during the time when the current President of Indonesia Joko Widodo served as the Mayor of Solo, SIPA has achieved its prestige as a major three-day festival devoted to creative arts by featuring performing arts from around the world. In 2017, SIPA staged performances under the theme ‘Bahari Kencana Maestro Karya’, carrying the message of how critical it is for us to love and appreciate the seas and oceans, including rivers, tributaries and water directly from the source.

Gaya Travel Magazine expresses our heartfelt gratitude to the Ministry of Tourism Indonesia for making the writer’s trip to Surakarta a reality.

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1 Comment

  1. Issue 13.1 – Keep on Travelling in 2018 — Gaya Travel

    February 15, 2018 at 2:15 PM

    […] Page 40. Going Solo @Surakarta Page 46. A Cultural Jaunt at the Special Region of Jogjakarta Page 52. Exploring Kansai Through the […]

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