Perth in Four Chapters – Part 3: Island Whispers and Ocean Giants
There’s something undeniably special about mornings in Perth, the kind that feel both familiar and foreign at once. The light is soft, the air cool, and the rhythm of the city unhurried. But this particular morning promised something extraordinary: a day on Rottnest Island, home to those irresistibly photogenic quokkas!
Our journey began early. We departed from Barrack Street Jetty, where the SeaLink Rottnest Express awaited, its blue-and-white hull gleaming under the morning sun. The Swan River sparkled as we cruised towards Fremantle, and from there, we set sail across the Indian Ocean, about a 30-minute ride to the island that locals affectionately call “Rotto.”
As the boat cut through the waves, Perth’s skyline faded into a faint silhouette behind us. Ahead lay turquoise waters and the promise of adventure. The wind was brisk, tinged with salt, and the fresh that clears your thoughts. By the time we docked at Thomson Bay, I could already feel the island’s laid-back energy.
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Meeting the Quokkas
Rottnest Island is small, just about 19 square kilometres, but it holds an abundance of natural beauty. Cars are banned here, which makes the air cleaner and the silence more palpable. Visitors get around on foot, by bicycle, or by hopping on the island’s eco-friendly shuttle.
Within minutes of arriving, I spotted my first quokka under the shade of a gum tree near the general store. It blinked up at me, curious but calm, its tiny mouth curling into what looked like a smile. That’s the thing about quokkas: they always look like they’re grinning, even when they’re just nibbling leaves.
Naturally, I couldn’t resist taking a quokka selfie. It’s a rite of passage here. But the guides reminded us gently to keep a respectful distance: no touching, no feeding. The quokkas are friendly, but they’re still wild creatures, and Rottnest’s biggest rule is to let them stay that way.
Everywhere you turn, the island seems to shift moods, from rugged coastlines, calm lagoons, and whispering dunes. I cycled along the path towards The Basin, one of the island’s most popular swimming spots. The water was impossibly clear, like liquid glass. Further ahead, Pinky Beach stretched wide and empty, with Bathurst Lighthouse standing tall above the dunes like a white guardian.
Lunch was a simple affair at Pinky’s Beach Club, where fresh fish and chips never disappoint. There’s something about eating seaside that makes everything taste better; salt in the air, chips still steaming, and the occasional seagull keeping you company…
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Back to the Mainland
By late afternoon, we were back on the ferry, heading to Hillarys Boat Harbour, the return route offering a new perspective of Perth’s coastline. The city shimmered in the distance, framed by soft winter clouds. But our adventure wasn’t over just yet.
Waiting for us back in Perth was something entirely different, an encounter with the giants of the ocean.
The next morning, we boarded a vessel operated by Rottnest Cruises for a whale watching tour off the coast of Perth. It was the migration season, when humpback whales travel north to warmer waters, passing by Western Australia’s coast spectacularly.
As the boat glided into deeper waters, the sea grew dark and mysterious. The air is colder here, the kind that numbs your fingertips but also makes you feel vividly alive. Everyone gathered along the railings, scanning the horizon. The captain’s voice came over the speaker, “Keep your eyes to the left, folks.”
Then it happened.
A plume of mist rose into the air, and a few seconds later, a humpback whale breached, twisting gracefully before crashing back into the sea with a thunderous splash. The crowd gasped. Even after years of travel, few sights have ever left me so still.
These creatures are immense, up to 40 tonnes, yet they move with such elegance. Watching them felt almost spiritual. One mother and her calf lingered near our boat for a while, diving and resurfacing in a slow, rhythmic dance. The captain explained that they were likely teaching the calf to breathe and dive properly, a tender scene unfolding in the wild.
It was already midday, and the waves were slowly getting stronger. Nevertheless, the sun was getting brighter and hotter, but no one minded. Everyone was transfixed, silent except for the sound of the sea.
Reflections at Sunset
By the time we returned to the city, the sky had turned from bright to orange. Perth’s skyline glittered faintly on the horizon, a reminder of how close, yet how far, we had travelled that day.
That night, back in my hotel room, I replayed the day in my mind: the cheerful quokkas, the turquoise bays, the powerful rise and fall of whales against the ocean backdrop. Perth had revealed another layer of itself: wild, majestic, and deeply connected to nature.
Next up: Part 4 – The Heart of the City: Perth’s Heritage, Culture and Hidden Corners, where I slow down and rediscover Perth from the inside out — its architecture, museums, and the stories that tie it all together.
Gaya Travel Magazine team is deeply grateful to AirAsia, Tourism Western Australia, and Ibis Perth for making the writer’s trip to Perth possible and smooth-sailing.
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