A Feast for the Senses in Istanbul
For the uninitiated traveller, Istanbul is a city of monuments—a checklist of domes and obelisks. But for those who know better, and for the locals who call it home, Istanbul is defined by its rituals. It is a city that lives to eat, socialise, and linger by the water. Nowhere is this “art of living” more vibrant than on the Anatolian (Asian) side.
With AirAsia X now flying directly into Sabiha Gökçen International Airport (SAW), you are landing right in the heart of this culinary and cultural sanctuary. Our final leg of the trip shifted from the heights of towers and hills to focus on the intimate, sensory experiences that define the Asian side: legendary breakfasts, viral desserts, imperial summer retreats, and electric nightlife.
Read more: An Introduction to Istanbul’s European Icons for First-Time Visitors.
Read more: A Guide to the Anatolian Side of Istanbul for First-Time Visitors.
The Infinite Breakfast at Çeşme Bazlama Kahvaltı
In Turkey, breakfast (kahvaltı) is not merely a meal; it is an institution. Therefore, to experience a traditional Turkish breakfast, we began our day at Çeşme Bazlama Kahvaltı, an establishment famous for its motto, which sounds more like a threat than a promise: “It is forbidden to leave the table hungry.”
Originating from the Aegean coast, this spot brings a relentless hospitality to the city. There is no menu to browse. Instead, the moment you sit, the theatre begins. Waiters descend with tray after tray of regional delights: over 30 varieties of homemade jams (from milk jam to poppy seed), marinated olives, spicy acuka (a tomato and walnut spread), and the star of the show—bazlama, a fluffy, grilled flatbread served piping hot and replenished endlessly. The goal is not just to eat but to surrender to the sheer abundance of the Aegean table.
Visitor’s Note: The fixed price for this unlimited experience is approximately €30–€35 per person (approx. 1,100–1,200 TRY). Recommendation: We visited the branch on the Asian side (Kadıköy), which operates from 09:00 to 17:00. They famously do not accept reservations for small groups, leading to legendary queues on weekends. The hack? Arrive on a weekday morning before 10:30. Be sure to save room for the pişi (fried dough pockets)—they are included in the price and are best eaten instantly.
The Best Cheesecake in the World at Viyana Kahvesi
To combat the post-breakfast coma, we sought out caffeine at Viyana Kahvesi. While the name (“Vienna Coffee”) pays homage to the historic coffee house culture shared between the Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian empires, the main attraction here is decidedly modern. This café is the ground zero for Istanbul’s obsession with San Sebastian Cheesecake.
While the dessert is Basque in origin, Viyana Kahvesi has made it an Istanbul icon by adding a decadent twist: the creamy, burnt-top slice is drenched in warm, melted Belgian chocolate right at your table. It is a visual and caloric masterpiece that perfectly balances the bitterness of the coffee.
Visitor’s Note: A slice of cheesecake costs roughly €10–€12 (350–450 TRY). Recommendation: Skip the tourist-heavy Galata branch. The Kadıköy or Bağdat Avenue locations are spacious and relaxed, often open until 01:00 AM. It is the ideal pitstop for a mid-afternoon sugar rush or a late-night treat.
Beylerbeyi Palace, the Imperial Summer Residence
Having satisfied our appetites, we turned to history, but of a more relaxed variety. We visited Beylerbeyi Palace (Beylerbeyi Sarayı), the 19th-century summer residence of the Sultans. Unlike the administrative heaviness of Topkapı, Beylerbeyi was built for leisure and hosting foreign royalty.
Set directly on the water’s edge under the shadow of the First Bridge, the palace is a Neo-Baroque jewel box. The interior reflects Sultan Abdülaziz’s obsession with the sea: motifs of ships and ropes are carved into the furniture, and a massive indoor pool sits in the central hall, designed to naturally cool the air during the sweltering Istanbul summers. It feels less like a museum and more like a home awaiting the return of its monarch.
Visitor’s Note: Admission is approximately €20 (700–750 TRY). Open 09:00 to 17:00. Recommendation: The palace is strictly closed on Mondays. Visit in the early afternoon, and after touring the interior, spend time in the waterside garden. The contrast between the white marble palace and the steel titan of the modern bridge overhead is one of the best photo ops in the city.
A Private Bosphorus Sunset Cruise
As the sun began to dip, we traded the land for the sea. Boarding a private yacht from Kadıköy with Boat Bosphorus, we embarked on the quintessential Istanbul experience: a sunset cruise.
The perspective from the water changes everything. As we motored away from the pier, the Maiden’s Tower (Kız Kulesi) rose from the water like a sentinel, its silhouette framed by the fading light. Moving north, the city unfolded as a moving panorama: the grand waterfront palaces of Dolmabahçe and Çırağan, the delicate Ortaköy Mosque, and the twin fortresses of Rumeli and Anadolu Hisarı. Passing directly beneath the colossal Bosphorus Bridge, listening to the hum of tyres high above while the water rushed below, was a moment of pure magic.
Our destination was Uskumru Balık Restorani in Beykoz. In this seafood legend, tables are set so close to the Bosphorus that the waves practically lap at your feet. Dining on grilled sea bass and calamari here, with the lights of the city shimmering on the black water, is the definition of luxury.
Visitor’s Note: A private charter typically starts around €300–€400 for a small group for 2 hours. Recommendation: Timing is everything. Book your cruise to depart one hour before sunset. This ensures you see the landmarks in daylight, experience the golden hour on the water, and arrive at dinner just as the city lights turn on.
The Last Night Adventure in Kadıköy Market
We ended our night where the local heart beats loudest: the Night Market in Caferağa, Kadıköy. Far removed from the tourist traps, this grid of pedestrian streets is the living room of the Asian side. Even past midnight, the area is buzzing with energy.
The appeal here is the vibe. Students, artists, and locals spill out of the pubs on Bars Street (Kadife Sokak), second-hand bookshops keep their doors open, and the scent of roasting mussels (midye dolma) fills the cool night air. Cats are roaming along the alleys like they own the city. It is gritty, authentic, and incredibly alive.
Visitor’s Note: The market is active late, often until 02:00 AM on weekends. Recommendation: Do not leave without trying to dine like locals at any of the restaurants along the street here. They’re festive almost every night. Additionally, we conducted a comparison and found that dried tea leaves, spices, and Turkish delights are significantly cheaper here. It is the perfect, messy conclusion to a day of indulgence.
Practical Essentials for the Gastronome
- Reservations: For high-end seafood venues like Uskumru, booking weeks in advance is essential, especially for a waterside table.
- Tipping: In restaurants, a service charge is often added, but leaving an extra 5-10% in cash for the waiter is customary and appreciated.
- Transport: The Asian side is best explored via the M4 Metro and the ubiquitous yellow taxis (or Uber). However, late at night in Kadıköy, traffic can be dense; walking to the nearest main road to hail a cab is often faster than waiting for one in the narrow market streets.
The Gaya Travel Magazine team is deeply grateful to AirAsia and the Türkiye Tourism Promotion and Development Agency for making the writer’s trip to Istanbul possible and smooth-sailing.
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