A Culinary Dialogue at Kayuputi, The St. Regis Langkawi
As The St. Regis Langkawi celebrated its 10th anniversary, Kayuputi welcomed JOËLLE Jakarta for an intimate gastronomic collaboration that brought together French craftsmanship, Asian influences and personal stories. For one memorable evening, I discovered how the finest culinary experiences can transcend what is served on the plate.
There is something special about returning to a place that has left a lasting impression. For me, Kayuputi at The St. Regis Langkawi is one of those places. Having visited before, I wondered whether it would still evoke the same admiration I remembered. As it turned out, it did.
We arrived just before sunset, greeted by beautiful weather and strong winds sweeping in from the Andaman Sea. Kayuputi stood as elegantly as ever, its predominantly white architecture commanding attention while retaining the warmth and quaint charm that I had come to appreciate. Its grand entrance still impressed me, although this time, an unmistakable sense of celebration filled the air.
Both chefs and the restaurant team welcomed us with festive hospitality. We were there for The Gastronomy Series: Kayuputi × JOËLLE Jakarta, a special Four Hands Dinner held on 23 and 24 October 2026 to commemorate the 10th anniversary of Kayuputi and The St. Regis Langkawi.
The collaboration brought together Chef de Cuisine Marco Portal Jr of Kayuputi and Executive Chef Ryan Fadli of JOËLLE Jakarta for a seven-course exploration of French culinary craftsmanship and Asian flavours. Yet, as I would discover, the evening was less about showcasing two individual kitchens than celebrating what could happen when their philosophies met.
Two Kitchens, One Culinary Vision
Despite their different culinary identities, the chefs found common ground in their respect for ingredients, precision and the belief that technique should enhance rather than overshadow the food.
“What interested me was that we were coming from different places, but our approach to cooking had a lot in common,” Chef Marco explained during our exclusive interview.
“Chef Ryan Fadli has a very strong French foundation, while my own cooking at Kayuputi uses French technique as a structure but draws its personality from Asian flavours, ingredients and the place where we are cooking.”
Their intention was never to create dishes that resembled one another. Instead, they wanted a menu that allowed both culinary identities to coexist naturally.
Chef Ryan was particularly conscious of ensuring that guests experienced a seamless progression rather than a succession of dishes representing different restaurants.
“From the beginning, one thing we agreed on was that the dinner shouldn’t feel like two separate menus taking turns,” he said.
Before the Gastronomy Series, the chefs had considered the menu’s sequence, richness, and balance. Once together in Kayuputi’s kitchen, they refined individual elements through tastings and adjustments.
Speaking with both chefs, I found them remarkably approachable, friendly and good-humoured. Their considerable experience was evident, but so was their enthusiasm for sharing the knowledge behind their creations.
A Journey Through Flavours and Stories
What distinguished the evening was the attention given to presenting each course. Rather than simply serving beautifully composed dishes, the chefs or their assistants introduced the ingredients, explained their preparation and offered guidance on how best to appreciate them.
We began with three amuse-bouches: Corn & Amaebi, Smoked Beetroot & Goat Cheese, and Foie Gras Parfait with sourdough. They were followed by King Crab & Avocado with cucumber pressé, yuzu emulsion and Oscietra caviar, before Duck Tortelloni arrived in kamo dashi consommé with radish, soy-glazed shiitake and hanaho.
As the courses progressed, I became increasingly interested in how the chefs combined ingredients that might not ordinarily appear together.
Some of the flavours and textures were genuinely surprising to my palate, particularly those involving foie gras and guinea fowl. Yet, rather than feeling overwhelmed by the unfamiliar combinations, I found myself appreciating the thought that had gone into them.
Of all the dishes presented that evening, two stood out as my personal favourites: the Confit of Black Cod and the Filet de Boeuf Farci.
The black cod was served with mousseline de moules, cauliflower cream, beurre noisette, capers and citron. Its presentation immediately caught my attention, with each component carefully arranged to create an elegant composition.
What made the dish particularly memorable was how the different elements were intended to complement one another, adding another dimension to my appreciation of the creation.
The Filet de Boeuf Farci was equally impressive. Featuring beef stuffed with foie gras and spinach, accompanied by caramelised apple purée, potato pavé and mustard seed jus, it demonstrated the sophistication of classical French cooking while introducing an intriguing combination of flavours and textures.
Both dishes reminded me that exceptional fine dining is not necessarily about using the most elaborate ingredients or techniques. It is about understanding how those elements work together and presenting them with clarity and purpose.
The Aged Guinea Fowl, meanwhile, offered an interesting glimpse into Kayuputi’s evolving culinary direction. Accompanied by kabocha, maitake, smoked-eel Bordelaise, sansho and pickled ginger, the dish combined a classical French foundation with distinctly Asian flavours.
“There is a French foundation underneath it, but its flavour travels through Asia,” Chef Marco explained.
“That balance is very close to where I would like to take Kayuputi.”
His observation offered an interesting perspective on the restaurant’s culinary evolution. As Kayuputi celebrates its first decade, Marco sees an opportunity to strengthen its sense of place, allowing French techniques to support an identity shaped by Asian flavours and Langkawi’s coastal environment.
It was a thoughtful approach, particularly for a restaurant whose location is such an integral part of its appeal.
A Taste of Home
Perhaps the evening’s most endearing revelation was the dessert.
The Leche Flan, presented with mango compote, calamansi gelato, brown-butter sablé and meringue, appeared every bit a contemporary fine-dining creation. Yet behind its sophisticated interpretation was something deeply personal.
Chef Marco revealed that the dessert originated from his mother’s recipe, a familiar part of his childhood and family gatherings.
“I grew up knowing it as something made for family and shared around a table,” he recalled.
Despite reimagining the dessert for Kayuputi, he was determined to preserve the flavour he remembered.
“I didn’t want technique or presentation to erase the flavour I remembered.”
It was a touching reminder that even the most elaborate culinary creations can have humble, deeply personal beginnings.
For Marco, sharing such stories allows guests to connect with food beyond its ingredients and technical execution. A dish might be inspired by a memory, a particular ingredient or the place in which it is prepared. Understanding that inspiration, he believes, can make the dining experience more meaningful.
The dinner also featured a specially curated beverage programme in collaboration with French champagne house Billecart-Salmon, alongside a Burgundy wine selection, complementing the event’s broader celebration of fine-dining craftsmanship.
Inspired by the Andaman Sea
One of the most interesting insights from Chef Ryan was how much Langkawi’s setting influenced his approach to the collaboration. Although JOËLLE’s culinary identity is rooted in French traditions, he did not want to simply reproduce dishes from Jakarta without considering where they would be served.
“Kayuputi has a completely different rhythm,” he observed. “You’re above the Andaman Sea, guests might begin the evening at sunset, and the experience unfolds more slowly than it does in a city restaurant.”
That difference encouraged him to consider the freshness, acidity, seafood elements and overall pacing of the menu.
“A collaboration should have a sense of where it happened,” he added.
I found that observation particularly compelling. As a travel writer, I have always appreciated how a destination shapes the experiences we encounter, whether through its people, culture, landscape or cuisine.
A Celebration Worth Continuing
By the end of the evening, The Gastronomy Series had exceeded my expectations.
Certainly, Kayuputi’s elegant surroundings, impeccable presentation and attentive hospitality contributed to the occasion. Yet what stayed with me was the care invested in every aspect of the experience, from menu development to the stories the chefs shared.
Their collaboration demonstrated that exceptional gastronomy need not be defined by extravagance alone. It can also emerge from mutual respect, creative curiosity and a willingness to learn from different culinary perspectives.
Chef Ryan believes Southeast Asia offers considerable opportunities for such exchanges. Although Jakarta and Langkawi are relatively close geographically, he noted that their ingredients, dining cultures and rhythms of service can be remarkably different. These contrasts, he believes, make collaborations particularly rewarding.
I couldn’t agree more.
Langkawi has long attracted travellers with its natural beauty, luxurious resorts and distinctive island experiences. Initiatives such as The Gastronomy Series offer another compelling dimension, positioning the destination as a place where discerning diners can discover exceptional culinary talent and meaningful gastronomic collaborations.
Personally, I would love to see the series become an annual fixture, inviting different chefs to Kayuputi and introducing fresh perspectives to Langkawi’s dining scene.
Having stayed at The St. Regis Langkawi during this visit, I also appreciated how naturally the occasion complemented the resort’s emphasis on personalised hospitality and attention to detail.
For travellers who enjoy fine dining and culinary discovery, The Gastronomy Series is certainly worth experiencing should it return.
After all, the most memorable meals are not always those featuring the most extravagant ingredients or elaborate presentations. Sometimes, they are the ones that reveal something about the people who created them and the places that inspired them.
And on that windswept evening above the Andaman Sea, Kayuputi reminded me just how meaningful those connections can be.
About The Author
Ed Junaidi is a seasoned Online Editor at Gaya Travel Magazine, where he has been sharing his passion for travel for over 15 years. A dedicated globetrotter, Ed cherishes the chance to explore the world, uncovering new experiences and insights with every journey. His compelling contributions to Gaya Travel Magazine earned him a prestigious residency grant from the Mexican government in 2015 through Media Residency Program. Through his work, Ed continues to inspire readers with stories that capture the essence of travel and cultural discovery.
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