Discovering the Land of Mat Kilau

Around the 1890s, the people of Pahang were outraged with the British who intervened in the state’s administrative affairs by not only introducing the British Residents system, but also by eliminating the Malay chiefs from the system altogether.

These, naturally, had caused tensions within Pahang and led to the formation of rebellions led by Dato’ Bahaman (also known as Orang Kaya Semantan), who was assisted by another Malay nobleman, Tok Gajah and his son, Mat Kilau. 

The force of these insurgents was rather powerful at that time; however, the British succeeded in tricking the local community into thinking that these insurgents betrayed the Sultan, thus forcing them to eventually retreat to Terengganu and Kelantan.

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By late 1895, Dato’ Bahaman and other famed fighters were said to have surrendered themselves to the Siamese and deported to Chiangmai. Tok Gajah and Mat Kilau, on the other hand, were reported to have died in a foreign land, or so the story was told…

It was thought that there was no single warrior who survived the war to live and tell the story – until one fine day in December 1969 when Mat Kilau returned to his village at Kampung Masjid, Pulau Tawar, Jerantut, and revealed himself to the locals. Of course, such a claim called for an extensive investigation, hence Pahang State Government had set up a committee to verify the story.

On 6 August 1970, the Pahang Chief Minister at the time, Tan Sri Haji Yahaya Mohd Seth, declared that the man was indeed Mat Kilau. The hero managed to share his side of the story on the historical events that happened in Pahang; but sadly days after his official declaration, Mat Kilau eventually passed away.

Mat Kilau Tomb
Kampung Kedondong
Pulau Tawar
27090 Jerantut, Pahang
GPS: 3.875604, 102.415935

Today, local people and international visitors alike can learn the story of Mat Kilau in depth by visiting a special gallery attributed to him. The Mat Kilau Gallery opens every day from 10:00 a.m. until 5:00 p.m. on weekdays, or 10:00 a.m. until 6:00 p.m. on weekends. Travellers are recommended to spend an hour or so here to read all the displayed information based on verified sources and watch the video presentation on the said national hero and the chronicle of the ‘Pahang War’ – you’ll be amazed at how much you will be able to learn about Pahang’s history. Entrance to the gallery is free.

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Mat Kilau Gallery
Majlis Daerah Jerantut
27000 Jerantut, Pahang
T: +609 266 2205 / +6013 937 3556 (Mr. Mohd. Khasri)
GPS: 3.932461, 102.576303

However, should travellers prefer a more hands-on experience, then they could opt for the Mat Kilau Trail that takes them exploring historical sites like the Mat Kilau’s well, the Parit Dalam fort, the ‘Lubang Penereh Emas’ (deep holes in the ground due to gold mining) and Kampung Empau cemetery where the local fighters who died in the battles during the ‘Pahang War’ are laid to rest. Not far from this village, is Mat Kilau’s own grave which is surrounded by his mother’s and his strong followers’.

Mat Kilau Trail
JKKK Kampung Budu
Mukim Budu
23710 Kuala Lipis, Pahang
T: +6018 376 9907
GPS: 3.994167, 101.991111

Not far from Jerantut, where Mat Kilau was born, is Kuala Lipis, the town that used to be known as ‘Little England’ among locals and visitors alike. The town is a haven for people who are interested in colonial architecture. There are countless prominent and handsome structures scattered around the town such as the Malay Hostel (1926), the Kuala Lipis Railway Station (1926), the Pahang Club (1907), the Resident Guest House (1922) and the Clifford High School (1913), which has the late ruler of Pahang Sultan Haji Ahmad Shah ibni Tengku Abu Bakar Shah and Malaysia’s celebrated singer Dato’ Siti Nurhaliza as part of its illustrious alumni.

Another interesting spot is the former SUK (State Secretariat) house (1926), which used to be the home of Malaysia’s second Prime Minister Tun Abdul Razak bin Hussein when he was the state secretary. This is also where the former Malaysian Prime Minister, Dato’ Sri Mohammad Najib bin Tun Abdul Razak, was born. Today, the house has been transformed into a gallery that features the background of the family along with Pahang culture and history. Travellers who wish to participate in the guided Kuala Lipis Heritage Trail may contact Mr. Abdul Ghani (Kuala Lipis Tourism Officer) at +6 019 9494 700.

When it comes to lodging, travellers may consider staying at the award-winning Homestay Sungai Pasu. The highlight of this experience is the chance to live like a local, which comes with homely accommodation and amazing home-cooked dining opportunities. 

There are various activities available here like Javanese cooking demonstration, rubber-tapping, craft-making, visiting the aboriginal village, picnicking and witnessing cultural shows. Contact Puan Sumi for more details at sumi_ngahdimi@yahoo.com or call her at +6 019 314 8978.

Homestay Sungai Pasu
JKKK Kampung Sungai Pasu
27600 Raub, Pahang
T: +6019 314 2558 (Mrs. Sumi Ngah Dimi)
GPS: 3.870088, 101.886503

Finally, end your journey in Pahang with an adventure trip to Kenong Rimba Park, featuring more than 20 unspoilt caves that come with their own unique formations and interesting legends. Some caves were said to have been used as shelters for Mat Kilau and Dato’ Bahaman when they escaped to the neighbouring state. It takes about an hour’s ride on a four-wheel drive to reach Kesong Camp where travellers may opt to stay in tents or chalets based on their liking. Do note, however, that only a few wonders of Kenong Rimba Park are open to the public such as Gua Buta, Gua Harimau and Gua Hijau, each with its own charm.

My favourite is the challenging Gua Buta, named after the pitch-black darkness inside its chambers. It features outstandingly beautiful and strange cave formations made up of glittering minerals that sparkle like brilliant gems when illuminated.

Do also take note that a permit from the Kuala Lipis District Forest Office is required prior to entering the park. Therefore, it might be more convenient for interested travellers to book their trip through tour operators such as Tuah Travel & Tours (+6 09 312 2292) that will arrange the permit, find you a qualified and registered guide, transfers, meals, accommodation and activities (caving, bird watching, kayaking, etc.). Expect to pay approximately RM300-RM350 per person for a two-night adventure in the park. Also, a maximum of three nights’ stay policy is in order here for each visitor.

Words of advice: do wear light hiking shoes and bring a torchlight since there is no lighting, no handrails and no walkways in the caves. It goes without saying that cave exploration is a strenuous activity and requires a certain level of fitness, hence, prepare accordingly.

Kenong Rimba Park
Pejabat Hutan Daerah Lipis
27200 Kuala Lipis, Pahang
T: +609 310 1550
GPS: 4.187100, 102.054205

TASTE THE LOCAL DELICACIES

• Dodol Gula Kabung (a sweet confection made from Arenga pinnata palm/sugar palm)
• Sambal Hitam (spicy black sambal made of chilli paste and starfruit)
• Gulai Keladi Kemahang (Kemahang yam curry)

Gaya Travel Magazine extends our heartfelt gratitude and appreciation to Tourism Malaysia Pahang for making our trip to Pahang a reality.